Elie Saab Spring Collection 2012

Elie Saab named his Spring collection Color Shock, and though he opened with a group of pearly pales, he soon segued into more vivid shades in the bright thread he began for Resort.

The Elie Saab show can be relied upon for billowing, swirling red carpet dresses smothered in glitter and crystals galore that little girls aren’t really allowed to play dress up in and grown-up ones love to sometimes even if they don’t admit it.

For spring/summer 2012, he’s taken a turn for the less ethereal, more solid – starting in cream, there were the signature evening gowns with matching narrow, gold buckled belts, then tailored trousers with matching chiffon blouses, featuring panels of pleated silk across them, that were buttoned up to the neck – very un-Elie.

Lace topped dresses with full knee-length skirts were a lighter alternative, some of which had lace inserts within the knife pleats dancing around the knees or inset into vertical lines across their bodices. Then the dresses were long again – split to the thigh, wrapped around the front, high necked and backless or with cloaks of flying chiffon floating out behind. Pussy bows appeared occasionally and almost every look was belted, and then of course they came encrusted top- to-toe in glittering treasure.

That was just the white – then it all happened again in English mustard yellow, graduating to dusky orange, bright green, purple and finally blue - Elie Saab letting the sun set on Fashion Week.

Elie Saab

Saab's biggest evening statement was sequins, which came graduated and rippling or set into plissé pleats. When he went unembellished, the drama came from languid and floaty seventies-ish silhouettes with tie necks or sexy asymmetrical necklines and up-to-there slits. The third building block was lace, which was actually most interesting when it was barely detectable, set into seams of neat wool daywear dresses.

Saab has probably the only ready-to-wear show with a separate line outside for clients. It's for them that he cycles so extensively through his chosen palette, repeating near identical styles. They may eat it up, but as usual the editorial set got a little glazed over. 

The only shock was the natural wonder of Karlie Kloss' legs closing the show.